How deep the available hole is in the metal behind the water pump matters, and the metal composition. Standard engineering practice is that any engaged threading between male and female threads longer than the max width of the male threading (Major diameter) is not adding strength. Bolts go into open holes, and have a nut on the other end.) is that it's longer than necessary, so a shorter one can be substituted. My memory of the screw (Screws go into blind threading. Preferably a 'bottoming' version of either. Looks like I just cross threaded one of the water pump bolts. Once I redid something because I got in a hurry with an old hard to remove gasket taught me the same lesson. He learned better later on and is now as fussy as I am. He thought the last bits of gasket material that were difficult to remove shouldn't really matter and I was being way too fussy. When my oldest was ~16 he got upset with me when I checked his prep job when he was renewing his water pump. I like to do a final cleaning with a bit of BraKleen on a rag followed by 99% isopropyl alcohol to be certain no oil or whatever might end up contaminating the mating surface. A thorough visual inspection and running your finger nail on the mating surface to detect any possible leftover remnant of the old gasket material is advised. If the clean surface is pitted or scratched RTV or some type of gasket goop should be used. Nope, I missed a whole chunk of old gasket that leaked like a sieve.Īll old gasket material must be completely removed if you don't want to redo the job. I know my very first water pump job had to be redone because I thought that I had cleaned enough of the old gasket off.
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